A lot of men don’t realise that the difference in collars are not just fluky one-offs, but, for the most part, examples of a wider collar-family, all of which can be worn n different ways, with different ties and accessories to set off.
There are too many to go through in one post, so here are a few that might be useful with the tie-tying tips you’re already armed with.
Cutaway Collars look great with Windsor or Double Windsor Knots due to the extra space for your bulging neckpiece. In fact, I would go as far as to say that one should always wear a cutaway when tying a knot as fat as a Windsor, unless you happen to prefer the Windsor Collar itself, which has a wider space between larger points to accommodate the knot. The Albany, popular in the early 20th century, is a common cut of cutaway collar.
The abundance of skinny ties around these days, make Button-down Collars a good choice for the slimmer gent. When I say slim, I mean you skinny folk, who can wear skinny jeans without looking like a Hippo from the nineties. A well-tailored shirt with a Button-down collar, black skinny tie, braces, skinny jeans and calf boots is a decent, edgy look for the season. Team it with this season’s staple – the flight jacket – for rugged cool.
The Turned-down Collar is the standard collar on all work shirts. They are great as they can hold most ties and knots, with the exception of the very large and very small. It is, thankfully, getting easier to find slim-fit work shirts, but until they are as ubiquitous as the parachute-esque sacks we’re forced to put-up with day in, day out, go for a narrow (though not skinny) tie with a half Windsor – the perfect look for work.
And now for a bit of retro..:
The Gladstone Collar is my personal favourite. Popularised by British Prime Minister, William Gladstone, the Gladstone Collar stands up against the neck, while its two points are ironed to stick-out horizontally from the front of the neck. It look particularly good with an Ascot (day cravat), or a scarf. I have started wearing this collared shirt under a waistcoat, rolling up the sleeves to my biceps and wearing a colour-coded scarf twixt my open collar. Follow those pointers and you’ll end up looking like Sherlock Holmes on his day off.
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Thursday, 11 November 2010
Wednesday, 10 November 2010
On Style: The Four in Hand Knot...
Addtional info: hold the knot, and pull the back of the tie to tighten the tie once it is in your coloour. By massaging the knot with your fingers during this process, you can add shape to the knot. The thin end should never be longer than the thick, and use a tie pin/slide/clasp for extra kudos!
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Tuesday, 9 November 2010
NFL Round-up: Week 9...
Let me start by saying this season is full of surprises – I’ve often preached about the benefits of the NFL’s replenishment system via the draft, but this year every single game seems to be close or on its head. Fantastic stuff in all, read on to find out who prospered and who suffered in this week 9, of the 2010 NFL season.
Who Rocked?
Green Bay are looking at last like the team I picked pre-season to represent the NFC in the Super Bowl. And by the looks of it, the New York Giants should be the last team standing in their way if things play out as I imagine they will.
The last time the Packers and Giants met in a crunch game was at the back-end of the 2007 season that saw New York prevail over Green Bay in the NFC championship game (thanks to an overtime nterception by none other than Brett Favre in his last ever Green Bay game) and go on to upset the undefeated New England Patriots in the Super Bowl. The Giants are playing better football now than they were then and look dangerous.
The Saints beat on a woeful Panthers outfit that should be minus long-standing coach John Fox come next season. Credit where credit’s due, though, the Saints still had to beat the Panthers and looked better than they have despite not reaching the levels expected after last year. Still, a win is a win and the Saints will take them any way they come if they can squeeze their way back into the playoffs – once there they can be dangerous.
The Eagles beat the Colts to open the door for the Texans to take control of the AFC South – a chance they failed to take. The Eagles, though, are impressive. They are winning games they should lose and this victory further compounds them as possible Wild Card stealers come January. I think perhaps at the expense of the Vikings unless they go on a run.
Whose chances were knocked?
Last week I was getting excited with the quiet head of steam being built-up by the New England Patriots. They had slunk to a 6-1 record – the best in the NFL at the time. Now they share that honour with a few teams standing at 6-2 after losing heavily to the Cleveland Browns, who were assumed y many to be doing a stand-up impression of a doormat until season’s end.
The Brady bunch will not be happy with this and I doubt they will dare lose another game until the end of the season. It was rubbish, but losses like this one must be easy to bear in comparison to the Super Bowl heartache inflicted by the Giants. They will bounce back and storm into the playoffs a very dangerous team.
Talking of dangerous teams, the Dallas Cowboys are at risk of going bust if they keep this up! Having spent a fortune on a new stadium and attempted a Joe Namath-esque guarantee of homefield Super Bowl advantage, they have been totally, wholly, utterly rubbish. I am at a loss. Wade Phillips must go at the end of the season, if not before. I wouldn’t normally call for a coach’s head, but WP has had more chances than a toddler would need to get this team deep into the playoffs – they are loaded at almost every position and so thoroughly mediocre, the let 45 points go past them in a game they knew they simply HAD to win. Worst team in the NFL? I think they are (at least the Bills try).
Boys, boys, boys! What are you doing? The Houston Texans could have avenged their loss at the hands of the Colts last week by beating an up-and-down Chargers team that were there for the taking. And the worst of it is, the Eagles did the hard work by burying the Colts where the Texans couldn’t. Houston are a top team, and a real feel-good story, but they need payoff success this year for coach Kubiak to keep his job (a job I feel he deserves). Fingers crossed they can nick the division – a Wild Card may be tough with the Steelers, Pats, Ravens and Jets all looking good.
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Who Rocked?
Green Bay are looking at last like the team I picked pre-season to represent the NFC in the Super Bowl. And by the looks of it, the New York Giants should be the last team standing in their way if things play out as I imagine they will.
The last time the Packers and Giants met in a crunch game was at the back-end of the 2007 season that saw New York prevail over Green Bay in the NFC championship game (thanks to an overtime nterception by none other than Brett Favre in his last ever Green Bay game) and go on to upset the undefeated New England Patriots in the Super Bowl. The Giants are playing better football now than they were then and look dangerous.
The Saints beat on a woeful Panthers outfit that should be minus long-standing coach John Fox come next season. Credit where credit’s due, though, the Saints still had to beat the Panthers and looked better than they have despite not reaching the levels expected after last year. Still, a win is a win and the Saints will take them any way they come if they can squeeze their way back into the playoffs – once there they can be dangerous.
The Eagles beat the Colts to open the door for the Texans to take control of the AFC South – a chance they failed to take. The Eagles, though, are impressive. They are winning games they should lose and this victory further compounds them as possible Wild Card stealers come January. I think perhaps at the expense of the Vikings unless they go on a run.
Whose chances were knocked?
Last week I was getting excited with the quiet head of steam being built-up by the New England Patriots. They had slunk to a 6-1 record – the best in the NFL at the time. Now they share that honour with a few teams standing at 6-2 after losing heavily to the Cleveland Browns, who were assumed y many to be doing a stand-up impression of a doormat until season’s end.
The Brady bunch will not be happy with this and I doubt they will dare lose another game until the end of the season. It was rubbish, but losses like this one must be easy to bear in comparison to the Super Bowl heartache inflicted by the Giants. They will bounce back and storm into the playoffs a very dangerous team.
Talking of dangerous teams, the Dallas Cowboys are at risk of going bust if they keep this up! Having spent a fortune on a new stadium and attempted a Joe Namath-esque guarantee of homefield Super Bowl advantage, they have been totally, wholly, utterly rubbish. I am at a loss. Wade Phillips must go at the end of the season, if not before. I wouldn’t normally call for a coach’s head, but WP has had more chances than a toddler would need to get this team deep into the playoffs – they are loaded at almost every position and so thoroughly mediocre, the let 45 points go past them in a game they knew they simply HAD to win. Worst team in the NFL? I think they are (at least the Bills try).
Boys, boys, boys! What are you doing? The Houston Texans could have avenged their loss at the hands of the Colts last week by beating an up-and-down Chargers team that were there for the taking. And the worst of it is, the Eagles did the hard work by burying the Colts where the Texans couldn’t. Houston are a top team, and a real feel-good story, but they need payoff success this year for coach Kubiak to keep his job (a job I feel he deserves). Fingers crossed they can nick the division – a Wild Card may be tough with the Steelers, Pats, Ravens and Jets all looking good.
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Monday, 8 November 2010
On Style: The Pratt Knot...
Addtional info: hold the knot, and pull the back of the tie to tighten the tie once it is in your coloour. By massaging the knot with your fingers during this process, you can add shape to the knot. The thin end should never be longer than the thick, and use a tie pin/slide/clasp for extra kudos!
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Sunday, 7 November 2010
On Style: The Half-Windsor Knot...
Suitable for work or play - my favourite knot for its versatility. Occassionaly works with a skinny tie, but simpler knots are better for them.
Addtional info: hold the knot, and pull the back of the tie to tighten the tie once it is in your coloour. By massaging the knot with your fingers during this process, you can add shape to the knot. The thin end should never be longer than the thick, and use a tie pin/slide/clasp for extra kudos!
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Saturday, 6 November 2010
On Style: The Windsor Knot...
The next four sections deal with the tying of a necktie. There are literally hundreds of minor variations to these knots, so keep searching, keep learning, and find one that works best for you…
Super-formal, only wide-boys wear this in the office. Save it for the races.
Addtional info: hold the knot, and pull the back of the tie to tighten the tie once it is in your coloour. By massaging the knot with your fingers during this process, you can add shape to the knot. The thin end should never be longer than the thick, and use a tie pin/slide/clasp for extra kudos!
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Super-formal, only wide-boys wear this in the office. Save it for the races.
Addtional info: hold the knot, and pull the back of the tie to tighten the tie once it is in your coloour. By massaging the knot with your fingers during this process, you can add shape to the knot. The thin end should never be longer than the thick, and use a tie pin/slide/clasp for extra kudos!
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
Friday, 5 November 2010
On Style: Ties - When and Where to Wear Them...
Everyone should own at least one good tie. I have over thirty, of varying degrees of goodness, but to be honest, I wear maybe four or five on rotation, and have a particular leaning to one tasty little Ralph Lauren number in Orange with White, Green and Purple decoration. Oddly enough, it seems to go with most things – a garish colour like Orange or Electric Blue, for example, is a nice way to set off an otherwise sombre outfit – Black suit, White shirt and Black tie is funereal; a Black suit, White shirt and Orange tie with secondary accents is jazzy.
A good, snappy tie need not be expensive. You could make your own, but they are devilishly tricky to get right (don’t let this put you off though – head down to your local haberdashery and ask them for a pattern and advice on material. It is good fun!).
A good place to find nice ties for cheap is the ever-disorganised TK Maxx. For around £10 you can pick-up a designer label in silk – well worth the investment. Be careful not to spill anything on your neckpiece, though: they are very hard to clean without warping the material and most require professional dry-cleaning attention.
If you are only going to buy a couple of ties you must purchase a simple Black tie to start your collection. Black ties are versatile and the most often required for formal situations. If you are slim, opt for a skinnier cut over a traditional wedge-shape. When worn with a tailored jacket, a skinny tie will keep the look fresh. For your second tie, I would suggest plumping for a designed label in a vibrant colour that coordinates with brown – that way you will be able to wear all the suits in your wardrobe. Orange is good as it sits nicely with Navy, Brown, Grey and Black, so can be worn with most suit combinations. Likewise, blue is a favourite or, if you’re feeling fruity, Pink can be worn with all colours and looks classy, though a bit businesslike.
And don’t be afraid of patterns! Bold paisley prints; extravagant checks; three-coloured stripes; club logos (my favourite)…patterns enliven the canvas created by your neutral suit, and can be the difference between the ‘geezer who just fell-out of the office party’ look, and the ‘effete chap who just popped out of parliament for a cigar’ look.
So when and where to wear a tie? Work is a good start, though some corporate jobs do not require you to follow such strict conventions. You will stand out in the office for making very little effort to go outside the box. I remember working for a back, which was full of suited and booted people, and still I would get compliments everyday for the way I was dressed. The secret? Unabashedness. I was unremittingly smart; my hair was well-kept; my facial hair neat; my suits fitted; shoes polished; tie well-tied and eye-catching in design; and accessorised to the finest detail: tie clips, slides or pins; a matching broach in my lapel; if the watch was Gold, the belt buckle would be too…
The Opera: if you’re going out, make an effort! As long as the environment to which you are heading doesn’t involve the throwing of mad shapes on a sweat-soaked dance floor, there is no reason not to dress-up. Even the pub, though you will get stick for this. I’ve always said, though, there is no shame in being the smartest person in the room, and if people say anything negative, they are probably just a bit jealous that they haven’t got the balls to wear a three-piece Harris Tweed ensemble down The Globe on a Thursday night…
Their loss.
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
A good, snappy tie need not be expensive. You could make your own, but they are devilishly tricky to get right (don’t let this put you off though – head down to your local haberdashery and ask them for a pattern and advice on material. It is good fun!).
A good place to find nice ties for cheap is the ever-disorganised TK Maxx. For around £10 you can pick-up a designer label in silk – well worth the investment. Be careful not to spill anything on your neckpiece, though: they are very hard to clean without warping the material and most require professional dry-cleaning attention.
If you are only going to buy a couple of ties you must purchase a simple Black tie to start your collection. Black ties are versatile and the most often required for formal situations. If you are slim, opt for a skinnier cut over a traditional wedge-shape. When worn with a tailored jacket, a skinny tie will keep the look fresh. For your second tie, I would suggest plumping for a designed label in a vibrant colour that coordinates with brown – that way you will be able to wear all the suits in your wardrobe. Orange is good as it sits nicely with Navy, Brown, Grey and Black, so can be worn with most suit combinations. Likewise, blue is a favourite or, if you’re feeling fruity, Pink can be worn with all colours and looks classy, though a bit businesslike.
And don’t be afraid of patterns! Bold paisley prints; extravagant checks; three-coloured stripes; club logos (my favourite)…patterns enliven the canvas created by your neutral suit, and can be the difference between the ‘geezer who just fell-out of the office party’ look, and the ‘effete chap who just popped out of parliament for a cigar’ look.
So when and where to wear a tie? Work is a good start, though some corporate jobs do not require you to follow such strict conventions. You will stand out in the office for making very little effort to go outside the box. I remember working for a back, which was full of suited and booted people, and still I would get compliments everyday for the way I was dressed. The secret? Unabashedness. I was unremittingly smart; my hair was well-kept; my facial hair neat; my suits fitted; shoes polished; tie well-tied and eye-catching in design; and accessorised to the finest detail: tie clips, slides or pins; a matching broach in my lapel; if the watch was Gold, the belt buckle would be too…
The Opera: if you’re going out, make an effort! As long as the environment to which you are heading doesn’t involve the throwing of mad shapes on a sweat-soaked dance floor, there is no reason not to dress-up. Even the pub, though you will get stick for this. I’ve always said, though, there is no shame in being the smartest person in the room, and if people say anything negative, they are probably just a bit jealous that they haven’t got the balls to wear a three-piece Harris Tweed ensemble down The Globe on a Thursday night…
Their loss.
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
E-mail theharenewspaper@hotmail.co.uk with questions, comments or contributory pieces.
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