A lot of men don’t realise that the difference in collars are not just fluky one-offs, but, for the most part, examples of a wider collar-family, all of which can be worn n different ways, with different ties and accessories to set off.
There are too many to go through in one post, so here are a few that might be useful with the tie-tying tips you’re already armed with.
Cutaway Collars look great with Windsor or Double Windsor Knots due to the extra space for your bulging neckpiece. In fact, I would go as far as to say that one should always wear a cutaway when tying a knot as fat as a Windsor, unless you happen to prefer the Windsor Collar itself, which has a wider space between larger points to accommodate the knot. The Albany, popular in the early 20th century, is a common cut of cutaway collar.
The abundance of skinny ties around these days, make Button-down Collars a good choice for the slimmer gent. When I say slim, I mean you skinny folk, who can wear skinny jeans without looking like a Hippo from the nineties. A well-tailored shirt with a Button-down collar, black skinny tie, braces, skinny jeans and calf boots is a decent, edgy look for the season. Team it with this season’s staple – the flight jacket – for rugged cool.
The Turned-down Collar is the standard collar on all work shirts. They are great as they can hold most ties and knots, with the exception of the very large and very small. It is, thankfully, getting easier to find slim-fit work shirts, but until they are as ubiquitous as the parachute-esque sacks we’re forced to put-up with day in, day out, go for a narrow (though not skinny) tie with a half Windsor – the perfect look for work.
And now for a bit of retro..:
The Gladstone Collar is my personal favourite. Popularised by British Prime Minister, William Gladstone, the Gladstone Collar stands up against the neck, while its two points are ironed to stick-out horizontally from the front of the neck. It look particularly good with an Ascot (day cravat), or a scarf. I have started wearing this collared shirt under a waistcoat, rolling up the sleeves to my biceps and wearing a colour-coded scarf twixt my open collar. Follow those pointers and you’ll end up looking like Sherlock Holmes on his day off.
Pick up THE HARE newspaper at Night and Day, Bar Centro, Font or Tiger Lounge in Manchester town centre, or the Oakwood in Glossop.
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