On Style: Watches...

Here’s a topic that could run for years and years and years. Given my daytime occupation as an apprentice watchmaker, I am obviously somewhat obsessed with this subject.

So I’ll be as brief as I can.

Watches are the most significant part of your attire. They will feature more than any other item you wear, even if you have two, three or more you rotate. People will come to regard your watches as a part of and will always hold an opinion – whether candid or not – on your wrist-wear. A man’s watch says more about him than the rest of his garb. That can be a good, o equally bad thing.

Rule number one: A watch is a status symbol. Therefore do not attempt to buy and carry off a watch significantly above your station. If you work in a petrol station and earn, let’s say, about a grand a month after tax, do NOT save up and buy a £6000 Rolex. It is ridiculous. Wearing that watch may be cool, but it is too much for you. The service charges would eat into your wage, and woe betide you if it actually BROKE! As they is a rule on how much a man should spend on his girlfriend’s engagement ring, so too should you impose a limit to your watch-buying pursuits. I think that spending one months salary on a watch is about as much as you can justify, and, to be honest, I would advise all of you not earning six figure salaries, to stick to half that.

So Mr Esso, you can buy a £500 watch, and that will do for you (for now, until your unpublished manuscript catches the attention of Harper Collins…).

Rule number two: Choice is more important that cost. Who buys a gold Rolex? One of three types of people: folk with too much money and not enough sense (pricks); Rolex nuts (misguided pricks); Pikeys (Pikeys). It’s a crass, in-your-face statement of how much money you have, and makes you look a wee bit like you don’t know what you’re doing.

Class is not always reflected in monetary value – in fact, it is often restraint and personal selection that wins the admiration of ones peers, not balls-out mendaciousness.

Choice something that is versatile, timeless and you – follow those three pointers and you will get years of wear and pleasant comments out of your purchase.

If you happen to know a watchmaker, ask their advice when buying vintage: I picked-up an unmarked 1920s gold Rolex on eBay for £18 inc. p&p. that was missing the glass – an easy repair job, adding immense value and, more importantly, wearability to the piece. Over time, your collection will grow if you are a fan of fine timepieces. Your first steps on the horological ladder should be concerned with case metals. Get yourself a gold watch, a silver watch, one of each with a black strap and one of each with a brown. Then graduate to rose gold (if you dare attempting to coordinate it with the rest of your outfit – rewarding but challenging). A good, early-doors suggestion would be the Swatch full-blooded gold and/or silver as the straps, as with all swatches are easily interchangeable with little risk of damage.

Personally I think you should hunt for something weird and wonderful that speaks volumes about your personal style. Put a bit of money aside and spend time thinking about what you want and comparing the prices of the vintage items you find.

The bargains and gems are out there; you’ve just got to be patient.


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